top of page
  • Writer's pictureSandeep Palekar

The city of one hundred spires - 1

Updated: May 30, 2021



Praha, Czechia. Tuesday, 20th May 2014


Woke at 05:00; the sun awoke at 05:20. The day seems warm and bright. Went down to the hotel's restaurant in the basement, for tea at 07:00. A generous buffet breakfast was laid out. Just had tea and returned to our room to get ready. Planned to eat breakfast between 09:00 and 09:30.

"If there is a heaven on earth, it is here!" I can safely make this statement now, at 15=47, penning this entry sitting comfortably on the bed with a can of 'Breznak' brand beer to my right, waiting to be opened. I had expected Prague to be beautiful. The city surpassed all my expectations - it is extremely beautiful! How sad that this piece of heaven on earth was hidden to the world at large


behind an iron curtain, till the early nineties, when Communism crumbed in the U.S.S.R. and its ripples felt in the communist bloc of East Europe.


After a sumptuous breakfast, we stepped out to explore the city at 09:45, this morning. Boarded a crowded tram no. 22 at the I. P. Pavlova stop close to the hotel, but soon found seats. The trams on this route are old ones, with a row of single seats on either side. As the

vehicle trundled along, the many delights of this most remarkable city were unwrapped. Buildings with exquisite architecture - art nouveau, baroque, gothic, the works -including gargoyles, brightly painted facades of shops, numerous cafes and restaurants with pavement seating, prominently displaying the board reading 'Pivo' or 'Beer', lanes and by-lanes - a few cobbled - and smartly dressed locals running about, all presented a spectacular sight. As the tram crossed over along a bridge on the Vltava, we had our first view of the famous Prague Castle and the St. Vitus' cathedral. Though I had seen pictures of these before leaving Nashik, the actual scene was amazing! As the tram curved left and right

on the ascent towards the castle, greenery took over and the red roofs gleaming in the bright sunshine reminded us of Shimla. We alighted at the stop 'Prazsky Hrad', meaning 'Prague Castle' and then began the exploration of the castle's exterior, the castle complex(neither of us was really keen on seeing its insides) and the cathedral. Once inside the complex, we were transported to another world! The ambience was mind-blowing! I was absolutely thrilled to have experienced what I had till then seen only in movies and in

photographs. We sat on a bench for a long time, just to soak in the atmosphere. Started our descent along a charming cobbled road, to Mala Strana. On the way, we spotted a sign inviting us to try the local chocolate, which we did. Kralovska Cocolada was a small stall selling homemade chocolates in a small square adjoining the cobbled road. The chocolate

was delicious! As we continued our descent, the wall to our right ended and we were treated to a most majestic view of the enchanting capital of Czechia! Needless to add, we clicked away like crazy to capture the surreal sight and ensure that it was real. Still numbed by the sight, we continued the truncated descent and soon reached the main road of Mala Strana.

Turned right; and a leisurely stroll along a cobbled slope brought us to another interesting lane with its many by-lanes. The setting was simply superb! A path to our left brought us close to the Vltava, where tourists were busy playing with a pack of geese. The sight of the river and the magnificent edifices adorning its opposite bank, was a sight for sore eyes. Cruise boats sailed up and down the river at short intervals. We returned to the main road

and continued the walk in the direction of the famed and iconic Karluvy Most (Charles Bridge), along completely cobbled roads with pavements to match, pastel coloured buildings on either side; and cute little restaurants with the mandatory floral decorations; after every 100 metres or so! We suddenly came upon a small garden at the junction of two pretty cobbled streets; and kept falling in love with the city.

Finally, we were on Charles Bridge. The bridge spanned the Vltava and was swarming with tourists. On either side of the bridge were erected old statues in black stone, at regular intervals. The beautiful old lampposts which both of us love so much, were there too, to add to the beauty. The entire ambience was augmented by the presence of vendors selling odds and ends, on the bridge. At one point in the middle, we stopped for half a minute to shoot a quick video of three musicians playing lively music. At the other end of the bridge we

spotted a unique shop selling puppets of all colours, shapes and sizes; and wasted no time in entering it to shoot. We then turned right and walked parallel to the river in the direction of our hotel City Central Deluxe. At one point, we got a most incredible view of the castle and the cathedral, perched on the hilltop amidst abundant greenery. Reaching the tram stop named Karlovy Lazne, we boarded tram no. 18, We had wanted to return to our hotel to rest, but decided on taking a joy-ride on the tram. Continued till the tram terminus of Vozovna Pankrac, taking in views of the city as the ancient vehicle trundled on its rails.

Alighted at the terminus and within 5-7 minutes were back in the same tram, for the return journey. We alighted at Karlova Namestie and crossing the road, caught tram no. 22 to I.P. Pavlova, the stop we had started our journey from, this morning. Returned to the hotel by 15:00, with halts to purchase apricots, a beer tin(mentioned earlier) and mineral water.


Set off again, at 18:30, after devoting 15-20 minutes to send messages on WA, thanks to the free wi-fi available at the reception. Strolled lazily along Sokolska in the direction of Wenceslas Square. Passed the stunning building of the Narodni Divadlo (National Museum) at one end of the square, where an obliging tourist clicked our photos with the museum as the backdrop; and walked on. Came upon a big garden with clean benches to sit on, laid out

in neat rows. Relaxed for a while, watching the beautiful surroundings. Mummy called us from Nashik, at that time. A little farther, we could see the entrance to the Hlavni Nadrazi(main train station). We must pay a visit to the station, too. After savouring the pleasant ambience, we walked back to Wenceslas Square and without difficulty, located the Vytopna Railway Restaurant on the first floor of a building at No. 56, W. Square.



The owners of this restaurant, who are rail fans, have installed rail tracks around the tables, complete with rail bridges and all! A toy train (an engine pulling one large, open wagon) runs on the tracks, from the bar to the tables, carrying the customers' drinks order ! We were amused to find a train carrying my glass of draught beer and Urmila's glass of vodka, approach us and stop at our table! No sooner did we lift our glasses than the train left. Certainly, a unique restaurant!! We ordered a dish called 'Flatties filled with grilled chicken served on a lettuce base with cheese dip'. It was wonderful! We also ordered the mundane French fries, followed by dessert - Apple pie with cinnamon sauce, filled with rum and raisins. This was delicious too. After this delightful experience, we left the place at twilight(it was 21=05!) and walked back to our hotel, admiring the night views of this most remarkable city.






55 views1 comment

Recent Posts

See All
Post: Blog2 Post
bottom of page