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  • Writer's pictureSandeep Palekar

'Towering' over Prague!

Updated: Jun 3, 2023


Praha, Czechia. Tuesday, 16th May 2023.


Got out of bed late – after 06:00! Had a good sleep. After tea in the room, just as we were messing up with our suitcases, Urmila felt something under her toes, partly hidden under the bed. On closer inspection, it was found to be the misplaced room card-key! Thank God it was found! It is now 08:59 and we are readying to go for breakfast. The day looks lovely, weather-wise; we plan to visit the Zizkov television tower that had also eluded us somehow on our last three trips to this fantabulous capital.


More later.


I resume this entry in our room at 15:17. A most wonderful first-half! We had set out after breakfast. In the direction of Bruselska, our usual tram stop. Bright and sunny. Pleasantly cold. Located the tram stop of Zvornaka, to await tram no. 11 that would take us close to the television tower; as per Google Maps. After Bruselska, a tram line curved and sloped downwards, whereas another line went on straight and ended soon. That was the tram terminus of Zvornaka. Just before Zvornaka stop, the line curved and entered a lane, to the left. It then came back to the terminus. Obviously, that was intended for the tram to ‘change direction’ at the terminus. At the stop were displayed two routes – 11 and 23. A gentleman waiting there said that the tram would arrive in 15 minutes. We waited patiently, clicking the scene around us. Sure enough, we saw a tram approach from Bruselska and come straight on towards our stop. Was this no. 11? Or 23? As it came closer, we saw that it was no. 23! Groan! We asked the gentleman about no. 11 and he threw up his hands, helplessly! No. 23, which had turned into the lane, now came back and docked at our boarding point.

We boarded the tram (instead of waiting endlessly for no. 11) and rode two stops to I.P. Pavlova. Saw that tram nos. 10 or 16 would take us to a stop called Jiriho Z. Podebrad, the nearest stop to the Zizkov television tower. It was a while before we realised that we were waiting on the wrong side! Crossed the tram tracks and were now at the right platform. Tram no. 16 soon arrived and we rode it to our stop, admiring the beautiful area of Namestie Miru with its beautiful gardens housing a robust church, on the way.

No sooner had we alighted than we saw the T.V. tower looming up right behind the aesthetically appealing buildings. One just cannot miss it. Following google, passing along clean, cobbled pavements and cutting across another well maintained park, we were soon at the tower. It was a beauty! On the exterior were sculpted figures of babies crawling up the tower! In the tower complex was another garden, housing a couple of restaurants. Climbed down a flight of stairs and entered the tower building. The lady at the counter informed us that only cash – in Czech Krowns – was accepted! We were about to leave when she offered us the option of online payment. We logged on to the website suggested by her – www.tiqets.com – and did the needful. As a senior citizen, I received a small discount. The best part was that I could use my Indian Credit Card and pay in rupees. The tickets were instantly delivered into my mailbox. Duly downloaded them in pdf. The lady helped us scan them; and the turnstiles opened to let us access the elevator to the top.

She started the elevator for us and pressed ‘level (not floor) 4’. We saw the numbers speed as the elevator raced up to floor no. 95! This was level 4. Stepped out to find ourselves in a small hall which had openings on all four sides. Each opened into a large, glass-walled closed ‘gallery’ or viewing platform, that offered jaw-dropping views of this most majestic city! 360 degrees, as one went from one gallery to the other! There was information on the highest towers in the world too; plus, a virtual screen that displayed information on the Zizkov tower. The next half hour was spent in moving from one gallery to another, taking in and admiring the surreal clusters of red roofs, green stretches, cobbled streets; and the outstanding landmarks of Prague, like the Vysehrad fortress, the church spires of Our lady of Tyn, the golden dome of the National Theatre and of course Prague Castle, in different directions, in the distance! Simply spectacular! In one gallery were open, swinging ‘spheres’ that served as cushioned seats, to admire the city at leisure! A fantastic experience, worth every rupee spent!

The elevator descended as fast as it had ascended. Exited the tower complex. Strolled leisurely in the direction of I.P Pavlova. Stopped to have coffee and cookies at a petite restaurant oozing with coziness, named ‘Mama Coffee’. The walk took us along beautiful, serene, tree-lined avenues, by stately buildings, verdant parks with pathways and fountains (we punctuated our stroll with a brief halt at one such park, sitting on a clean, wooden bench below a benevolent tree providing shade, to soak in the ambience), busy namesties (squares) where people (a few with dogs on a leash) were hurrying, dodging the dutiful trams that trundled in all directions, tiny tots crossing the road holding hands; the works!

Reached the ‘Masala India’ restaurant at I.P Pavlova and thoroughly enjoyed the meal – Chicken Thali, Plain Papad, Curd and Gambrinus draught. Post lunch we simply strolled to Hotel Assenzio along Sokolska and were in our room by 14:30.


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