Praha, Czechia. Sunday, 14th May 2023.
Got out of bed after 06:00. Down to breakfast by 09:15 or so. Left the hotel by 09:45. Destination: Vysehrad Castle; or more appropriately, Vysehrad fortress. This spot was reputed to offer great views of the Vltava and the city spread out on the left bank. It had somehow eluded us on our last three trips to Prague, so it was necessary to correct that aberration. Looked up the route on Google – it suggested a walk of about 18 minutes. Not bad! The fortress was located in Praha 2, sharing the same postal code as our hotel – Hotel Assenzio.
Crossed Sokolska, continued along Wenzegova street and at the ‘T’ junction, turned left. (Bus no. 148 turns right, towards Karlovo Namestie). The weather was just fine – bright and sunny, the climate cold but not uncomfortable. Walked on a beautiful road between stately buildings shining in the rays of the Sunday morning sun, to the Police Museum. Walked through its grounds, saw interesting exhibits – police helicopter, police cars and scooters, etc! Exited onto a stone road, which sloped downwards. After a while, had to negotiate steps, which we carefully did. Came upon a wide, open area with a parapet at one side, to our left. Left the steps to investigate. The parapet offered lovely views of the eastern parts of the magnificent city.
Continued the descent, between rows of stone constructions, till we finally were on a level road that passed through what seemed like a small colony – modern, robust buildings identical in size, shape and colour. I love the sense of aesthetics in Europe – whether medieval or modern. We arrived at the main road, which ran perpendicular. It was spic-n-span, as if it had never been used! Crossed it and continued, now on an ascent. Along a cobbled pavement, modern buildings on either side of the road. Staring at another ‘T’ junction ahead, beyond which lay abundant greenery! So peaceful and sublime! We turned left and continued the ascent, soon taking a wide ‘U’ turn and within minutes, were inside the fortress complex. Spotted a signboard that read ‘Vysehrad Gallery’, pointing to a flight of stairs to our right. The road continued to our left and we could see it turn right, in the distance. It was obvious – either follow the road and take a longer route to the top or climb the stairs and reach sooner. We chose the latter option and at the top, found ourselves in a typical fortress complex – a lovely green lawn in the front and part of the high-walled ramparts running straight, bordering the lawn to its left.
Following directions, we walked ahead and within a minute or two, found ourselves at the periphery of a huge garden, complete with statues, fountains, criss-crossing pathways; and clean wooden benches. Spotted a few buildings beyond the far, diagonal end of the ground and rightly guessed that they nestled on the opposite bank of the Vltava. It also meant that the viewing gallery lay somewhere in that direction. Strolled through the serene garden towards the spot and as we neared it, spotted another signboard that read ‘Vysehrad Gallery’, with an arrow pointing upwards. Sure enough, a short flight of stairs led to an open area having a parapet. Obviously, the gallery!
We lost no time in reaching up and were clean bowled by the splendid view! A cluster of red roofs, far below the curved main road running along the right bank of the Vltava, the lovely river itself with large and small craft lazing on its waters; and the city spread from left to right on the left bank! To the right we spotted three bridges on the river; and in the distance, Prague castle! Could not spot Charles Bridge because the river took a turn after the third bridge. The scene was mind-blowing! Couldn’t take our eyes off the incredible vista before us! Shot pics and videos. The sun was shining brightly and as we were facing the west, cast its bright rays on the left bank, making it ideal for photography. After allowing the scene to sink in completely, we descended the stairs and decided to return to the spot seen earlier, from the periphery of the garden. Were instantly rewarded with better views! Got our picture clicked to the background of Prague Castle, with the same, unabated child-like enthusiasm we had shown while getting it clicked for the first time, 9 years ago! Prague is special and will always hold a unique place in my heart!
Felt the need for a drink, so made ourselves comfortable at Restaurant Citadella, just below the first viewing gallery. Had draught beer / coffee. Urmila made friends with a black cat (!) that belonged to a friendly family seated two tables away.
Then began the journey back into town, having decided to go back the way we had come, to the level main road; and catch a tram from there. Consulted Google, which showed another way, on the opposite side of the way we had arrived; this way being nearer to the riverside. Followed it and were glad for the same, for the way down was by a flight of stairs that was open to the left and offered great views of the river and the castle even as one descended! Flowers and trees on either side lent an aura to the entire scene! Marvelling at the sight, clicking more snaps, we descended. Within a few enjoyable minutes we were on the road bordering the right bank. Walked on to the nearest tram stop and purchased 30-minutes tickets online, on the ‘PID-Litacka’ app. Tram no. 3 soon arrived and we rode it till the stop of Jindrisska, via the much familiar route of Karlovo Namestie-U Nemonice Radnice-Lazarska-Vodickova-Vacklavske Namestie.
Walked to the main railway station, Hlavni Nadrazi. Bought tickets for the ‘Airport Express’ bus that we would be using the next Sunday, at the ticket office. The tickets would be validated on entering the bus. Visited the huge bookstore in the station premises, to look for guidebooks. There were many on Prague but none that suited my requirement. Exited the store. Wanted to use the washroom. Went down to the WC, where the charges were 20 Czech Krowns. Card usage was accepted, but my transaction was declined! The ‘gate’ refused to open, while ‘pressure’ was building! Seeing this, the gentleman behind me put in a coin of 20 Czech Krowns and the gate having opened immediately, asked me to go through! When I offered to pay him the equivalent in Euros, he refused! So nice of him to have helped a complete stranger! Heaving a sigh of relief, I went up to locate the departure stop of the ‘Airport Express’, so that we would not have to waste time hunting for it the next Sunday. Found it easily enough, it was right next to the bus stop for the German Railways’ (DB) bus to Nuremberg, which we had used 4 years ago!
Exited the station the way we had come; and walked to Wenceslas Square. Two of my students from India – Adhiraj Bachchav and Maitreya Punde – called up to inform me their results (ICSE, grade X). Nipun Bedse called too. Anushka Thakre also tried but her call could not get through. After much deliberation on where to eat, on the sidewalk of Wenceslas Square, we decided on a different Indian restaurant, ‘Mala India’. It was just 350 mtrs away from where we were standing, on a side road parallel to Sokolska.
The restaurant, reached by a short flight of stairs down. Looked cozy and comfy. Ate a lovely lunch comprising Mutton Biryani, Plain Papad and Raita. Draught beer was mandatory, of course! A filling meal with zero wastage. During the meal, I received a call from another student – Sayee Deshpande –who had performed very well too.
Walked to our hotel along Sokolska, with a halt at Mini Market, at a stone’s throw from the entrance to Hotel Assenzio. Two tins of Smirnoff-Vodka Lemon. By a strange co-incidence, it was exactly 15:33 (the same time as yesterday) when we entered our room.
Rested, watched YouTube, used WA, watched the pics and videos shot this morning, discussed the wonderful visit. It is now 20:16 and time to enjoy Smirnoff!