Prague, Czechia. Tuesday, 17th May 2022
Sleep broke at 04:15! Too early to get out of bed; fell asleep again to wake up at 05:15. Left the bed at 06:00. Got ready, ate breakfast at the hotel's restaurant on the first floor, then set off under a cloudy sky, with a cool breeze blowing. There was a book store right next to our hotel where I searched in vain for the paperback version of John Bills's excellent book 'Via the left bank of the ninetees'. It seems this version is available only on Amazon.com
Strolled towards Hlavni Nadrazi (Prague main railway station) via the magnificent structure housing the national museum. There was a large crowd everywhere, including school children, who seemed to be on excursions. The rain-washed capital bore a bright and clean look! The tower of Hlavni Nadrazi had received a facelift - the ugly black was now coloured a pleasant cream with the golden wings at the top shining brightly. The building seemed to have received a coat of paint too. It was now a very light pink and looked radiant. Entered the station from the main, elevated road. The frescoes under the dome also seemed to have received a fresh coat. Climbed down to the main concourse and purchased the 24-hours tickets for the local transport.
Caught tram no. 15 to Malostranske Namesti, but alighted one stop earlier, at Malostranska, by mistake. The climate being cool with the sun peeping out from behind the clouds from time to time, we decided to foot it to Charles Bridge. Crossed the Vltava along Manesav bridge, getting our first views of the iconic Charles Bridge, on this trip. The entire setting was serene and peaceful, reinforcing my belief that Prague is the most beautiful capital city in Europe (though I have not seen all the European capitals). Most of the buildings en route Charles bridge seemed to have received a revamp; and looked majestic! Charles Bridge never fails to amaze! The thrill of being on it is indescribable! We took our time crossing it, admiring the views of the river to our left and right; the views of Prague castle with the St. Vittus' Cathedral in the background; and the stately buildings on both the banks of the river. The different statues erected on the bridge give it an aura, setting it apart from the many bridges spanning the river! At the foot of one statue were placed bouquets of flowers and people were touching its base. We wondered whether it was the same one with the reputation of bringing the visitor who touched it, back to Prague! We enquired of an elderly tourist couple whether that was indeed the magical statue; but they too had no clue. The lady said that since many people were touching it, it seemed to be the one. I commented that this was my third visit to Prague, without having ever touched the statue. The gentleman immediately quipped, "Well then, if you touch it, you might stay here forever!" I needed no second invitation; and touched the statue! Urmila did likewise. After exchanging a few more pleasantries with the couple, who it turned out, were from the United States, we strolled on.
We were now on the opposite bank of the Vltava and continued our stroll as the city was inviting us to do so! On the spur of the moment, we decided to visit the castle. Walked on, guided by Google, along an ascent; then climbed approximately 150 stairs, to reach the Prazsky Hrad (Prague castle) complex. The higher we climbed, the better were the city views. However, the sun was in the wrong direction, purely from the point of view of photography, hence did not take pictures! There was a huge crowd in the complex, most were watching what seemed like the changing of guards. We walked on ahead and sat down on a vacant bench. Naturally, memories of our 2014 visit came flooding back and we soaked in the ambience for approximately fifteen minutes before getting up to return to Wenceslas Square. Wanted to go to the 'Hradsky Praha' tram stop to catch tram no. 22.
However, the route to the stop passed through the the exit gate of the castle! Went back the way we had come, now descending. Caught a tram but when it reached Malostranske Namesti, we realised that we had taken the tram in the opposite direction! No worries! Just crossed the tram tracks and caught the right one in the right direction! Re-crossed the Vltava along Manesuv Bridge and alighted at Narodni Trida, a bustling place. Rather than walk ten minutes to Wenceslas Square, we boarded another tram that took us there. A short walk brought us to the restaurant U Balouna on the square. Yesterday, we had earmarked the restaurant for trying out, as it boasted authentic Czech cuisine. The entrance to the restaurant was along a long corridor, with colourful paintings on either side and on the ceiling. A man (dummy!) holding a beer mug stood welcoming us at the start of the stairs that would take us down into the underground restaurant. I love such places! The restaurant itself was very cosy with pleasant decor that included cartoons and quotes in Czech, on its walls and ceiling. Enjoyed our lunch of Chicken steak with vegetables; 1 litre radler and two cups of coffee with lots of milk and heaps of sugar! The bearer was a jolly fellow who teased Urmila by asking her if she wanted one more cup of coffee, when we asked for the cheque! Returned to our hotel - Ramada - which is right on the Square itself, to rest. Plan to visit the Letna park for fantastic views of the city, at 16:00/16:30.
Well, we left the hotel at 17:30! Tram from Wenceslas Square to Sady, a brief walk through the beautiful, sprawling gardens of Letna, to the viewpoint. The view of Prague, as expected, was simply awesome! Especially that of the parallel bridges! I had seen so many pictures of this, that I had wanted to see it myself. We had missed seeing it on our first two trips to Prague (2014 and 2019) Third time lucky! Clicked pics, shot videos. It was an exhilarating feeling, just being there, standing at that spot! Reluctantly left the place after a while and caught a tram to a stop after I.P. Pavlova, with a change of trams at Karlovo Namestie. Purchased stuff at Swagat Indian Stores. Then, walked to Wenceslas Square via Hotel City Central Deluxe and U Graffu restaurant; in the late evening brightness. All four - I.P. Pavlova, Karlovo Namestie, City Central Deluxe and U Graffu; revived fond memories of our visit to this city of one hundred spires, in 2014!
At Wenceslas Square was neatly laid out a food market, stalls housed in identical wooden cabins. Spotted one selling the traditional Czech sweet Trdelnik; and tried one. Initially, I found it to be just bread and sugar but slowly the taste grew on me and I loved it! It is one long and thick strip of bread, coated with sugar; and nuts like pistachios (powdered). It is in the shape of coils resting on top of one another, akin to bangles stored at a bangle store. As you start eating from the free end, the long strip starts unwinding. It is fun! The best part is that it is cooked over charcoal. It also is available in variations like chocolate, cream, ice-cream, etc. Urmila did not try it; what a pity!
Returned to our room; calling it a day! To Olomouc tomorrow!