Koblenz, Deutschland. Friday, 6th May 2022
I write this diary entry at 20:44. An eventful day, as I look back. It started at Dusseldorf at 05:15, with my completing a basic lesson in German on 'Duolingo'. Then tea in the room, morning ablutions, packing our bags. Down for breakfast, which we enjoyed, as always. Then back to our room to collect our bags. Checked out at 09:10 or so.
Walked to the Hauptbahnhof in bright sunshine and a cool breeze, pausing to click the final photos of Dusseldorf (on this trip). Waited at the station concourse, watching the indicator for our train to Koblenz. It wasn't showing even by 09:35 (scheduled departure 09:58) so we walked along the broad passageway flanked by bright shops and restaurants on either side. Climbed to platform no. 16. Our train was delayed by 15 minutes, which soon became 20! A young woman with a baby in a pram suddenly asked us, in broken English, about the next train to Cologne. On enquiring of her nationality, the answer was, "Ukraine!" We - especially Urmila - became wary at once! We don't know why! It is human nature, perhaps. We assumed at once that she was a refugee and Urmila asked me to steer clear of her! Why do we jump to conclusions?
Our train arrived 20 minutes late, as promised by the efficient Deutsche Bahn (DB). It was a bright, new, swanky regional express, with a new livery - black with white dots! Looked chic! It being virtually empty, we found good seats. A comfortable ride of an hour and forty minutes through the elegant German countryside, with our first views of the majestic Rhine River that kept us company almost throughout, saw us at Koblenz Stadtmitte station. I was filled with nostalgia when the train halted at Remagen, on the way. Remagen is famous for its Ludendorf bridge, which the allies had captured during WWII. Hollywood had made a movie called 'The Bridge at Remagen' (1969), which I as a schoolboy, had watched with my father at Regal Cinema in Mumbai, sometime in the 1970's. It was simply great even passing by the town!
Exited the Stadtmitte station using the subway and emerged right at the Zentrumplatz - the town centre. The place was bright and a riot of colours; a lively place that reminded us of Baden-Baden, instantly. Well dressed men and chic women were everywhere - talking, laughing, eating, drinking and licking - ice cream ! Kids in their colourful best were gambolling around - screaming, screeching, splashing in water, the works! We had arrived at fairyland !
I was taken aback a bit as I had expected Koblenz to be smaller and quieter. However, we liked what we were seeing, so no complaints! Found our hotel and were welcomed by reception. The room was not yet ready so we decided to leave our bags with reception and go to eat lunch somewhere. Searched for a good restaurant ( 'good' meaning one that served draft beer!) but couldn't find any so settled for a pizza joint that also had bottled beer. Lunch done, we walked back to the hotel in the jamboree. It was exactly 14:00 hrs and our room was ready. Checked into room no. 206, road-facing, on the second floor. The room was small but neat. It had an internal wash basin!
After a quick wash, we left for the Hauptbahnhof, destination being Cochem, a gem on the banks of the Rhine's sister, the Mosel. Waited at the Zentrumplatz stop for a while before we could board bus no. 8 that took us to the Hbf within 5 minutes. The station building oozed old world charm; similar to the Hbf buildings at Lindau and Baden-Baden (2019 trip). The bus terminus, as is the norm in German small towns, was adjacent to the Hbf; and was well organised.
The train to Cochem (final destination Luxembourg City!) departed from platform no. 8 on time. The train being quite small (just two coaches), was pretty crowded - a rare occasion when we were seeing a crowd on a train in Europe. The weekend seemed to have already begun for the locals! The journey lasting approximately 40 minutes will remain etched in memory. Shortly after leaving Koblenz, the train crossed the beautiful Mosel river over a bridge and thereafter, she kept us company right till Cochem! She is quite a broad river, with barges and other boats plying on her waters regularly; hosting houses and tiny residential colonies on its opposite bank, all creating a great impact. For once, I was eager to get off a European train and go close to the waters! Reached Cochem on time and disembarking, exited the Bahnhof. We were on a patch which sloped downwards to the main road beyond which ran a bicycle track, adjacent to it ran a pedestrian track, close to which flowed the gentle Mosel. The charming colonies nestling among the abundant greenery on the opposite bank made great viewing. The bright sunshine and blue sky added to the surreal ambience. We chose to walk along the pedestrian track so that we could be close to the river.
The next two hours were spent in heaven! Cochem qualifies as one of the finest towns I have ever seen. Spic-n-span; an orderly layout; the clean roads lined with robust, aesthetically appealing buildings, boasting plenty of greenery - natural and manicured; and above all, the shy and gentle Mosel! We strolled in the direction of the town centre, approximately 600 metres away. High in the hills in the background loomed the Cochem castle, stirring memories of the Vianden Castle in Luxembourg, similarly perched (2018 trip). The small town looked better and better as we neared its centre. To our left was the river with its charming dwellings amidst the greenery on the opposite bank; to our right was a bright, green, well-manicured lawn with a separate play area for kids; the bicycle track; the main road bordered by the attractive buildings. Straight ahead dominated the town centre with a string of pretty buildings situated on a curve on the main road and the castle keeping silent vigil over this gem on the banks of the Mosel! Beyond the houses to our right, the town spread out, even on higher reaches. The entire scene was astoundingly awesome!
Spotting a crowd drinking what seemed like wine at one of the restaurants, we followed suit, ordering two glasses(200 ml each) of Riesling wine. After all, we were in the grape-growing area of Germany and couldn't leave the place without tasting the wine. The wine was absolutely divine! Also ordered French fries, which were average.
Started shooting a video with my camera but after a minute, the battery was exhausted! Had to content myself with using the TAB's camera, which obviously does not give as good results. Started strolling back towards the Bahnhof, using the bicycle track this time, all the while keeping an eye open for bicyclers who would certainly label us 'trespassers'. The weather was perfect - blue skies, bright sunshine, cool breeze!
A minor shock awaited us at the Bahnhof! The 18:18 train to Koblenz was cancelled, owing to some problem on the track between Cochem and Trier. Groan! Consulted fellow passengers on platform number 1, but they had no clue either. We went back to the entrance of the Bahnhof where a group of passengers had gathered around two uniformed personnel. The uniformed ladies turned out to be employees of DB and gave us some cheerful news - the next train to Koblenz would depart from platform no. 4 at 18:33! It seemed that the train from Koblenz to Trier would be terminated at Cochem and would return to Koblenz. What luck ! The passengers bound for Trier would be taken there by an SEV (replacement service) bus.
We duly caught the regional express that finally left Cochem at 18:45. After admiring river views from the windows of a train for the third time today, I felt elated. I had longed to visit Cochem and Koblenz for the last three years and now I felt the wait was worth it! Reached Koblenz Hauptbahnhof at approximately 19:35. Boarded bus no. 1 just outside the train station. The driver made us pay (4 Euros) for our tickets, saying that the Quers-Dursch-Land ticket we were holding, wasn't applicable for the local transport. Will need to check on this!
Purchased Ritter Sport chocolate at Netto Marken-Discount store, diagonally opposite our hotel. Back to our room. Enjoyed my 'Western Gold' Bourbon Whiskey-Cola while Urmila was content in skipping both, meal and drink. We plan to cover local Koblenz on the morrow - the Deutches' Ecke beckons!
It is now almost 22=00 hours and my eyes are drooping!