Stuttgart, Deutschland. Tuesday, 24th May, 2016
Out of bed at 06:45. Plan to visit Triberg, the base for the famous German cuckoo clocks, in the heart of the Black Forest. After the usual morning routine, left the Salgarkars' home exactly on schedule at 08:20, purchased tickets (Euro 5,60) at Vaihinger Strasse U-bahn station and took the U-12 to Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof. At 10:00, we reached platform no. 4 where Urmila waited while I went to a mini-store nearby to purchase Ritter Sport. As I was hurrying back with the chocolates, I happened to glance at the indicator. Was bitterly disappointed to find the message 'This train is not running today' scrolling against the number of the train we were to catch! We strolled to the MacDonald's outlet at the Hauptbahnhof and ordered breakfast - egg burger for Urmila and sausage-bread for me; cappuccino for both. Used the free Wi-Fi (a blessing!) to search for other destinations and zeroed in on a town called Herrenberg, approx. 30 kms. south of Stuttgart, on the Stuttgart-Zurich railway route.
The bright red regional express departed at 10:18 and we duly reached the town at 10:48. Alighted on the platform under a cloudy sky and amidst a very light drizzle. Were immediately rewarded by views of the Herrenberg church tower situated at some height; and the lovely countryside to the west. To the east was the main part of the town, with the bus stand just adjacent to the station; a couple of colourful buses awaiting passengers. The lack of crowds proved that this town was not on the touristy circuit (thankfully!)
In the light pitter-patter we set off in the direction of the church, guided by two ladies who too had disembarked from the train and who seemed to know their way around. The town was clean and green. Entered a shoe store where Urmila struck up a conversation with a French sales-girl; and ended up using their clean washroom. Left without any purchases but the store did not seem to mind. Further, the girl gave us clear directions to the church.
We ascended along a cobbled path that had bright shops and cafes on either side. The buildings with eaves and gables had typical sloping roofs and the half timbered architecture that we love so much; typical Deutschland! The setting was beautiful. We suddenly came upon the town square, situated just below the church. A fruit and vegetable market - very colourful - adorned the square and we took our time examining the gifts of nature. Purchased 250gms. of dark red cherries, which proved to be absolutely delicious!
Slowly ascended to the church on a cobbled path and then a flight of stairs. There was abundant greenery everywhere, with those impressive German homes peeping through the verdure. The church building was magnificent but what was more fascinating was the view of the town and the German countryside - a marvellous, spectacular, 360 degrees view. Spent some time in the church's garden, admiring two huge metal bells and soaking in the ambience - clean, green and quiet, punctuated by the delicate chirping of birds now and then. Heavenly!
We descended along a different route- cobbled roads flanked by trees and hedges on either side, lanes and by-lanes, petite dwellings - all reminiscent of the charming Cesky Krumlov in Czechia! Made our way back to the Bahnhof, admiring the town all the way.
Took some time trying to find a place to eat, but were unsuccessful in finding a proper restaurant. Locals tried their best to guide us but we ended up back at the Bahnhof, at a small Turkish joint selling kebabs and pizzas. As they did not offer chicken, we settled for a vegetarian pizza, with a thin crust and which turned out to be quite tasty. Then entered the Signal bar neighbouring the pizza joint, for a beer and a coffee.Drinks done, we took two rides around the town in the colourful local buses - No. 782 and No. 779. The driver of the latter asked to see our tickets and was impressed when I showed it on my Tab. The routes took us through two different areas of the town and the charming sights simply bowled us over!
The bus dropped us back at the Bahnhof and we spent time at the centrally heated Deutsche Bahn (DB) office adjoining the station, pretending to go through their different brochures. We were actually trying to escape the cold! The train to Stuttgart arrived on the dot at 16:10 and departed on the dot at 16:12.
Back at Stuttgart at 16:45 and phoned our host, Mr. Salgarkar, inviting the family to dinner. We then rested at the station for two hours, till the family arrived. The Salgarkars took us to perhaps the most 'happening' area of Stuttgart - Koningstrasse. The cobbled road was very wide, with shops and shopping arcades, restaurants and cafes; on either side. Then, to our left, some distance away, loomed a magnificent structure - the old palace of a king!
We continued our walk along Koningstrasse for a while and then turned left towards a Chinese buffet restaurant, our hosts' choice. The restaurant had a strange system - if you opted to pick up the small plate, you could load it to your fill, but just once. If you opted for the large one, then you could stuff yourself 'n' number of times! Anyway, the food was lovely - chicken, pork, duck, the works; and of course the mandatory draught beer!
We then walked back along Koningstrasse and descended to the U-Bahn station of Schlossplatz, saving us the bother of walking up to the Hauptbahnhof. Boarded a U-12 and duly reached home, marvelling at the night views of the city. At one point during the journey, the train ran in the centre of the road, with traffic flowing on either side of the tracks. To make it more exciting, the train was on an ascent. Near another station, we got a lovely view of the city of Stuttgart, spread over two hills and also in the trough in between. From Vahinger Strasse station, we took a different route home - not along the main road, but along another behind the housing colonies, parallel to the main road. Being tired, we must have dropped off pretty fast.
A simple, humble town, off the tourist circuit, had charmed us and made our day!
My review of Herrenberg published in Lonely Planet India magazine, June 2017 issue.