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  • Writer's pictureSandeep Palekar

Charming-Charming!

Updated: Jun 11, 2021


Baden-Baden, Deutschland. Saturday, 18th May 2019


Had planned to leave Triberg by the 12:14 Regional Express. However, we managed to go to breakfast at 08:47 itself and were through by 09:10 or so. We discussed between ourselves and decided to catch an earlier train - the one at 10:14. Went back to our room, checked out and descended the stairs with luggage, stopping at every floor; still not daring to use the lift! Got bus no. 7270 earlier than expected and it dropped us at Triberg Bahnhof by 09:42.

Entered the petite station building. I discovered a small, photographic exhibition on the history of the Schwarzwald railway, next to which, in a tiny 'auditorium' was playing a video on a screen! As the video was about Deutsch Bahn in general and the Schwarzwald Bahn in particular, we sat there and watched. The video was not only interesting but also helpful in whiling away the time.


At 10:00 we walked on to the beautiful, curved platform with its proximity to the hills that housed the great pine forests. The train bound for Karlsruhe arrived on time. It was pretty crowded for a European train - filled with weekend revellers - but we got seats. The delights of the Black forest were further unravelled as the train proceeded, till the town of Offenburg, where many passengers boarded the coach. This was a completely different scene from what we are used to, in Europe. Europeans seem to love their weekend! After Offenburg, the forest started thinning and moved away from the railway line.


Alighted at our destination, Baden-Baden and exited the station. At once, we got a familiar warm feeling (as we had got at Bamberg) and knew that we would love this place! The station building was beautiful and just outside was the bus stand - neat and orderly.

Across the road were plenty of trees with the typical European constructions partially hidden within. The weather was great - not a cloud in the sky - and the climate cool. A perfect setting in Europe! Boarded bus no. 201 which quickly filled to capacity. Our stop was 11 stops away so we settled back to enjoy the ride. The charms of Baden-Baden slowly unfolded as the bus glided on the town's smooth roads. Urmila's suitcase was held in check by an elderly lady sitting next to her, hooking her umbrella handle to the bag. The town presented a great sight - wide, clean roads with pavements to match, bright shops or restaurants bordering either side, peeping out through the abundant greenery throughout.

Alighted at our stop to be immediately confronted by a huge green stretch to our left - a park. We crossed the park along cobbled paths, over a narrow river, by a bubbly fountain in a pond, passing stately buildings; and under beautiful, soothing trees. It being a sunny Saturday afternoon, the park was a riot of colours - locals letting their hair down. At one corner of the park stood a church. A colourful wedding was in progress, with the guests thoroughly enjoying themselves. Roadside restaurants were filled choc-a-bloc with beer guzzlers and coffee sippers, all in animated conversations and laughter.

We located Hotel Lohr with the help of two gentlemen who guided us accurately. It was in a quiet street that branched off from Lichtentaler Strasse, running parallel to the length of the park. The reception was on the first floor and I carried my suitcase up. Urmila wisely waited down. The lady at the reception welcomed me and checked us in, though it was early for check-in (normally done at 15:00 in Europe). She then said that our room was not in Hotel Lohr but in Lohr Residenz, in a street across the road, hardly a minute away. She showed us the place and handed me the room key. Informed me that the room was on the second floor. The room number was 1. We climbed with luggage to the first floor. I then thought of first making sure of the exact location of the room, hence asking Urmila to wait, went up one floor more, in the darkness (there was no light in the passage!). Tried to open room nos. 5 and 6. It had slipped my mind that our room's no. was 1. I was caught up in that 'second floor' thing. As the rooms did not open, I went back to Hotel Lohr's reception and asked the lady the room no. She answered, "No. 1." I told her that there was no room no. 1 on the second floor; only rooms no. 4,5, 6! I said that room no. 1 was on the first floor, not second! She maintained that it was on the second floor and then it struck me that like the Americans, they call the 'ground' floor as the first, hence our 'first' floor becomes second! Walking back to Lohr Residenz, I finally found the correct room and that too after switching on the lights in the passage by a simple flick of the switch on the left wall! Why had I not been able to locate the switch earlier??

The room was spacious, well laid out; and had a very comfy feel to it. Most importantly, it had two big windows that opened fully on to the road below and offered great views of the park adjacent to the road. The windows had broad, wooden ledges to sit on. It was wonderful!


Left the room after a while and went down to the restaurant named 'My Lyn', attached to the hotel, on its ground floor; sorry, I should say first floor!! Relished draught beer in the slightly warm ambience. Urmila had vodka with Sprite and our food comprised Phad Thai with vegetables and crushed peanuts; and stir fry chicken; plus veg. spring rolls. The meal was good. Then set off to explore the inviting town.


Strolled around the area, along cobbled paths, between rows of restaurants, shops and beautiful, robust constructions. Though we have been seeing pedestrianised zones on every trip to Europe, they never fail to impress. Checked out a very well stocked Lindt showroom.

People young and old were in their Saturday best - mood and attire; milling around, eating, drinking, licking and slurping too (ice cream, of course!) The bright weather and slightly warm climate had clearly inspired the Germans to make hay while the sun was shining!

We then decided to take a bus ride to the Bahnhof. As mentioned in my notes elsewhere, the German DB day ticket is truly a blessing! It allows you unlimited travel within the state; for the day (actually from 09:00 on the day of issue till 03:00 the next day) on regional trains; and also on the local transport within a city or town. Boarded a glittering, green coloured bus (no. 205) from Leopoldsplatz stop, located at the beginning of a long, tree-lined avenue. The ride afforded a better look of the magnificent town and we couldn't help admiring Europe and its sense of town-planning, aesthetics, upkeep and discipline; for the umpteenth time! Hats off to these people for maintaining everything the way it should be maintained. The difference between humans and wild animals who think they are human, becomes more glaring on every visit to this continent!

We strolled around the area of the Bahnhof and then decided on another bus ride. Bus no. 212 looked inviting so we obliged, without knowing or bothering to know its destination. Showed the BW day ticket to the driver at the entrance; then found good seats. The bus took us out of town, on a twenty-minute ride through the picturesque countryside housing orderly villages, to a small village called Rastatt. It is simply amazing how even the smallest of villages are miniature replicas of their towns, down to the smallest detail! Got off at the Bahnhof and captured the station building - another gem - on camera.

Decided to return to Baden-Baden by train. It was 16:45 and there was a train due at 16:53, on platform no. 3. Changing platforms had become a child's play for us and now we were without luggage too. The red, double-deckered regional Express bound for Offenburg made a graceful entry into Ratstatt station and we were back at Baden-Baden Bahnhof within ten minutes. Bus no. 201 to Museum LA 8 stop (the stop for our hotel). To the hotel's reception to collect an electric kettle and other related stuff. We also collected tea and milk sachets.

Scarcely were we back in our room when it started raining! The picture of early afternoon changed dramatically - it suddenly became dark and people dispersed into shelters as if an air-raid siren was blaring! This was a downpour, unlike any witnessed by us in Europe, thus far! It lasted for fifteen minutes and then petered out into a drizzle. The drizzle continued for long, effectively wiping off any plans we might have had of stepping out again. We stayed put in our room, admiring the late evening view of the now well-lit park; with a light mist forming over the pine forest in the distance. Had dinner - Chicken breast cooked in sweet and sour sauce, to the accompaniment of Remy Martin.


Thinking of visiting Mt. Merkur tomorrow.




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