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  • Writer's pictureSandeep Palekar

Captivating Krakow!

Updated: Mar 22, 2023


Krakow, Poland. Saturday, 21st May 2022.


Out of bed after 06:00. There was no hurry, no urgency. Got ready, ate breakfast at the rather small restaurant in the hotel's basement. The breakfast was good, the yoghurt being the best tasted on the trip, so far. Stepped out at 10:00. We had walked till the tram stop of Teatr Slowackiego when we felt the cold breeze blowing a little too harshly for our liking, hence returned to our room and donned our jackets. Stepped out again, feeling warm!

Purchased the 24-hours transportation tickets from a TVM at the tram-stop, helped by a kind lady. Our destination was the Main Market Square. Tram number 20 took us through the very interesting city of Krakow - plenty of green spaces, with the typically European buildings. A certain area had very old buildings that seemed to be slumbering in the communist era! Though the city has its own charm, it has that definite East-European flavour to it; and can do with a face lift. The tram dropped us at the stop of Filharmonia and from there the main market square was just three minutes away on foot, along clean pavements bordering green spaces and wonderful constructions. We came upon a group of Segway riders, who willingly posed for a picture, at our request.

The Main Market Square was charming. It was huge. There were two cathedrals; and the mandatory statue. A food market adorned a huge area of the square and right at its centre was the cloth hall, which housed shops selling cutlery, curios, local handicrafts, etc. The entire setting, under a bright sun, was beautiful and lively! We spent a lot of time there, going from shop to shop/stall to stall. Sampled some sheep cheese, but did not like the taste; some jujube-like sweets which were lovely; and other local sweets, shaped like big toffees, which were quite good. I sipped lovely draft beer (loved moving around the market with glass in hand) while Urmila slurped a Choco-vanilla cone. Watched a group of sweet young kids perform to a Polish song! Thoroughly enjoyed the time spent there!

Returned to the stop of Teatr Slowackiego by tram no. 73. I preferred this route to the one followed by tram no. 20 because the former was longer and afforded more views of this interesting city! What impressed us most was the abundance of green spaces, all meticulously maintained. Also clicked a picture of a sweet child on the tram. The child was standing in the tram without any support. We were sitting a few seats away. I used zoom on my camera to photograph her (without her knowledge; sorry!) I do not know why, but the pic seems uncanny! Look at the girl! She is holding her doll in her left hand while her right hand has its fingers outstretched. Her sharp features and piercing gaze (almost as if she knew I was clicking her!) are quite unnerving, if you understand what I mean!


Rested in the room till 16:00. Drank tea, watching trains come and go. Set off again at 16:30 for Wavel hill. Tram no. 75 took us through more charming areas of the city and dropped us at Jubilat. The surroundings were green and serene! We walked in the direction of the castle on Wavel hill, seen in the distance. Turned left at a junction in the road, a little later. A beautiful, tree-lined avenue led straight in the direction of river Vistula while an ascent led to the Wavel Palace, perched on Wavel hill.

We chose the ascent and were amply rewarded once we reached the top after a straight, gentle climb, that took us past the external boundary of the palace. We were in the palace complex. To our right lay the palace and its courtyard, to our left was a wall - more a parapet - a sort of a boundary to the complex; and which afforded a splendid view! A view of the curvaceous river, its banks, the abundant greenery everywhere and a Saturday evening crowd enjoying itself. The cathedral and other buildings in the complex, including two towers, were super impressive. Spent good time there, enjoying the ambience, clicking away!

Then, climbed down towards the river, along broad steps. Passed through beautiful, manicured lawns to reach the river front. Basked on a clean wooden bench facing the river, in the evening sun. The cool breeze blowing in one's face made the entire experience more enjoyable. After a while, we got up and walked back to the tram stop of Wavel. Boarded a crowded, glittering tram and rode four stops to the tongue-twisting tram stop of Plac Wszystkich Swietych. Walked to the Main Market Square by a route different from the one we had taken this morning. The square looked lovelier in the evening sun. Surprisingly, the crowd was a bit thinner than what it had been this morning. Urmila wanted a buggy ride, so waited for the buggy. It was a wait in vain as no horse-drawn carriage appeared! It was getting a bit colder and a few dark clouds had started gathering. Abandoned the idea of the buggy ride and made our way in the direction of a restaurant serving Polish food (we had earmarked this restaurant this morning). Passed through a long corridor that opened out into a garden, where people were seated, enjoying their food and drink, at five or six tables laid out there.

Just as we were about to sit at a vacant table, a waitress appeared and asked us to sit in the underground restaurant, as they were closing the garden seating. Back into the corridor and down an old-fashioned staircase, as if we were going into a dungeon! It instantly revived memories of the now non-existent restaurant Novomestsky Pivovar at Prague. The restaurant was lovely - completely old world! The chairs at the tables were quite heavy. Brick walls decorated with odd objects like pots, pans, bells, etc. lent the place a certain charm! As we made ourselves comfortable at a table, the waitress lit a fat candle, to complete the experience. The bar was located in a cave; wonderfully arranged. It was decorated with Christmas wreaths.

We ordered grill chicken with vegetables, Jack Daniels and cappuccino. Enjoyed the meal. Took tram no. 73 back to Teatr Slowackiego. As we were crossing the road to get to the footpath that would take us directly to our hotel, Urmila fell onto the pavement! She was busy admiring the road that sloped downwards, failing to notice the lose metal chain between two metal stakes, between the edge of the road and the pavement! Her slippers got trapped in the chain and she lost her balance! Hurt her knee! Hope it does not cause her much discomfort!


It is now 21:53 and we are munching Haldiram's 'Bombay Mix', accompanied by a tin of Budweiser(original Czech lager); and 'Strongnow' apple cider. Will call it a night soon! Have to wake up by 05:15 on the morrow, to ready ourselves for the main purpose of our visit to Krakow - the visit to Auswitch-Birkenau!



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