Shoghi, Himachal Pradesh, India. Sunday, 15th May, 2011
A sound sleep broke at 06:00; Urmila and I went out for a walk in the quiet, serene environs. Had a cup of tea in the garden after returning, chatting with Mrs. Agarwal, the friendly owner of the hotel. Set out with our friends, the Paul family, by Maruti van, at 11:00. Destination Shimla! Reached the Shimla lift by 11:45. Reconnecting with Shimla after a decade felt great! It was heartening to see that contrary to reports, Shimla had remained as beautiful as ever, perhaps more so to my eyes.
The feeling is indescribable, as I stepped out of the taxi and set foot on Cart road, right next to the lift that would take us to Mall road, Shimla's most famous road. I was reunited with my lovely girlfriend after a decade! She welcomed me with open arms and enveloped me in a passionate embrace, as she had done on five previous visits, the very first being way back in the year 1981 when I was studying in degree college. The ride in the lifts up to the Mall,
stepping onto Mall road and savouring the so-familiar sights caused paroxysms of delight and sent shivers up my spine! Each step on the roads of Shimla turned the clock back many years. We strolled along Mall road up to Scandal point, the junction of Mall road and the Ridge; and a favourite hang out of tourists and locals alike. The stroll was punctuated by innumerable halts, akin to the running of a passenger train. Urmila and I had softy next to Trishool's bakery- an old favourite. All my favourite landmarks were intact, I was delighted to see. At Scandal point we made a U-turn and walked slowly towards the ridge, clicking away. The sight of the Christ church - Shimla's most prominent landmark - with
the cute library building next to it, was overwhelming! Lunched at my old favourite - Sher-e-Punjab dhaba on my favourite dish Mutton sheekh kabab masala; then descended into the crowded but colourful lower bazaar, with the familiar aroma of spices filling the air! Nothing seemed to have changed over the decades. Thankfully!
Thakur Bhrata's shop (ideal for buying spices, especially saffron) was closed. Climbed back to the level of the Mall and continued our wonderful walk past a dilapidated structure which was promptly named 'Bhoot bangla' (haunted house) by us; to Kali Bari temple. The views of my favourite hill-station from the temple were amazing!
Walked back along the road we had taken, towards Scandal point. On the way, we spotted yet another favourite of mine - Indian Coffee House, a veritable institution, on Mall road. Lost no time in descending to it. Feasted on another delightful dish, mutton cutlets. Accompanied by coffee. Sheer delight! Sheer nostalgia! Back to the lift along Mall road which was now lit -it was dusk. The famous book shop Maria Brothers at 79, Mall road, was closed. Left Shimla for Shoghi by nightfall. Admired the hill-station, now looking like fairyland with all its lights; from the various bends and curves, as the Maruti van sped towards Shoghi on the national highway. Shimla's most famous landmark was outstanding!
Shoghi, Himachal Pradesh, India. Monday, 16th May 2011.
Woke up at 07:00. Set out with Kaushik on an exploratory trail, along dust tracks and between trees; with the sweet chirping of birds in our ears; at 08:00. Were rewarded by the spotting of the Kalka-Shimla narrow gauge train and Kaushik captured a lovely video of the train negotiating a curve. The walk culminated with a tricky descent into Shoghi market and we returned to the hotel by 09:00, thoroughly satisfied.
At 11:45 we set off again, this time under a stronger sun for Shoghi railway station, 1.5 kms. away. The station building was compact and the premises clean. The friendly station master advised us to check the availability of tickets for Kalka, at Shimla. Kaushik clicked a few snaps and we returned.
Left for Shimla by taxi at 14;45; reached the lift at 15;15. After some window shopping on the Mall, set out for the Viceregal Lodge, an institution steeped in history. Passed along yesterday's haunted house, Gorton Castle, the residence of the Chief Justice, etc. before an exhilarating walk in the cooler evening hours in the company of pines along a motorable road, finally saw us at the magnificent edifice now housing the Institute of Advanced Studies. Had snacks at its coffee shop before joining the guided tour of the IAS at 18:30.
The interiors were quite impressive. Lavish use of teak, brought from Myanmar (then Burma). It was an enriching half hour that we spent at the magnificent building. Lovely!
On our return, we hired a taxi at the gates of the institute and it took us through an intricate maze of interconnected roads, which included a descent down to Cart road; zigzagging through army headquarters; before dropping us at the telephone exchange building on the Mall. It was brief but unforgettable ride along Shimla's roads at dusk!
We plodded along the now well lit and crowded Mall road, ate snacks at a take-away counter, before taking the lift back down to Cart road. Got into an Indica taxi sent by the Agarwals from Shoghi. Left Shimla at 21:03 and reached Sunrise Villa (our hotel at Shoghi) at 21:30. We trooped into Kaushik's room for viewing the photos on his laptop.
Well, what more can I say about this mystical erstwhile summer capital of the British raj in India? It holds a fresh promise, a fresh excitement and plenty of nostalgia, on every visit!