Baden-Baden, Deutschland. Sunday, 19th May 2019
Got out of bed by 06:00. Sleep a bit disturbed as someone was walking around in the room above ours; I could clearly hear the heavy trod of feet. It went on for five minutes. Nothing unusual about someone moving around in a hotel room, except for the fact that it happened at 02:00! Eerie!
Sky is cloudy and the prospects of going to Mount Merkur do not look too good. Will take a call after breakfast, by 10:00 or so.
Writing this entry at 16:30. This morning, over breakfast, we decided on Merkur. Caught bus no. 205 from Leopoldsplatz bus stop and purchased for the full journey up to Mount Merkur(including the funicular ride), return. The bus took a most majestic route -along a clean, spic-n-span road bordered by attractive trees; and stately homes painted in light, pastel shades with shining windows and neatly trimmed gardens housing large colourful flowers; on either side. As the bus ascended above the town of Baden-Baden, we could see pine trees to our left and right and the mountain range seemed closer. We fell in love with the entire scene to such an extent that we vowed to walk for a part of the return journey. Reached the last stop, Merkurwald; and awaited the funicular that would transport us to the top of Mount Merkur. From the boarding station, we could see the rails going steeply up; and felt a certain, almost child-like thrill!
The funicular car soon arrived and the journey commenced. We were passing through a pine forest so thick that it blotted out valley views completely, unlike that at Interlaken, Switzerland; where one gets a super and constant view of the village of Interlaken with its lakes, as one ascends or descends. The ride lasted a little over five minutes. At one stage the slope became so steep that we could feel only admiration for this engineering marvel.
At the top, our hopes of good valley views and the town of Baden-Baden were immediately dashed because all we could see around was white - mist! Even then, we tried to make the best of what we could; and clicked away. We had decided to return and requested a tall gentleman there to click our picture. He obliged and mentioned that the forecast from 12 noon onwards was good and that the mist would clear ! What luck! We abandoned our plan of returning just then and stayed on, wandering here and there. Sat down at a restaurant for some beer and coffee. managed to knock off 45 minutes this way. Called up my niece at Mumbai and spoke to her about the place, as this was on her bucket list.
Then, from the restaurant's window we saw the mist clearing. Exited and were rewarded with a most spectacular view of the valley jam packed with trees among which nestled the town of Baden-Baden! Went to the opposite side and managed to get a fairly good view through the thick cluster of pines.
The mountain top now started getting crowded, with many enthusiasts wanting to spend their Sunday afternoon there. We returned to Merkurwald by the funicular and though a bus was waiting, we walked as decided earlier. It was a most rewarding walk - one of the highlights of this trip - that exposed us to the delights of the upper reaches of Baden-Baden, at leisure. Yet again we were admiring the sight of the thick pine forests in the distance to our right; and to our immediate left; the beautiful homes of the locals; the neatly trimmed hedges outside the homes and the lovingly maintained gardens full of flowers. How we wished we were living here! We had decided to walk only a part of the way but the entire setting was so surreal that we ended up walking back all the way to Baden-Baden!
Went to Caracella Therme - the thermal baths that Baden-Baden is famous for - just for a look; weren't keen on bathing in the hot water spring. Strolled leisurely in the area around Leopoldsplatz and even relaxed on easy chairs placed adjacent to a bubbly fountain, diagonally opposite the Lindt showroom. The number of people seemed to be increasing by the minute, no doubt encouraged by the Sunday afternoon sun. The scene soon resembled that witnessed the last afternoon and was a complete contrast to the desolate Leopoldsplatz we had started our journey from, this morning. Strolled to the other side of our hotel and were disappointed to find Netto City Market closed. Returned to our cosy room by 16:00. Changed, enjoyed tea with Sunfeast's Marie Orange, sitting on the ledge near the open window, watching happy Badenites enjoying life.
Set off again for a quiet stroll around the area, at 19:00. Taking in the beauty of the town at twilight, we came across an Indian restaurant called 'Namaskar' and decided to try it. However, the lady there informed us that the restaurant was full (it had just 8 tables) and requested us to return in half an hour. Walked back to the garden opposite our hotel and eased ourselves into the easy chairs placed there. Went back to 'Namaskar' at 20:15 and found the restaurant to be indeed small, but cosy. Ordered Chivas, chicken kali mirch, sheekh kabab and naan. The food was quite good. On talking to the person serving us, we got to know that he was the owner, his father - the founder - having passed away recently. The father had come here way back in 1989 and started the restaurant. Name Bakshi, from New Delhi. The senior Bakshi had probably married a German. As we exited, we found the name 'Namaskar' written on the floor above the restaurant too and guessed that the owners might be residing there. The son seems to have followed his father in marrying a German. What an enterprising man was the senior Bakshi - named Sandeep!
